Benthe and I have been visiting Terschelling ever since we got together, about ten years ago. Our son Jonas, now seven, has never missed a year. At this point, he honestly feels like a bit of an Eilandkind — an island child. Every summer, we join my parents-in-law who rent a large house to host family and friends.

One of Benthe’s quiet dreams had always been to spend a night on a boat in the harbour of Terschelling. During a village fest back home in Ankeveen, she mentioned this to our friend Symon — originally from Terschelling himself and a former captain of Wadden Sea ships.

A few weeks later, around 8PM, our doorbell rang. It was Symon, grinning, with an invitation: a weekend adventure. We’d sleep on a ship in the harbour — and the next day, sail her back to Stavoren.

Day One: Island Mode Activated

Last Saturday, we left home at 6:15 in the morning to catch the 8:15 Tiger Express from Harlingen to Terschelling. Just the three of us — lightly packed and ready for a full day on the island.

Once we arrived, we walked into town for breakfast and stumbled upon Pura Vida, usually our go-to in Midsland, but now happily discovered in West-Terschelling. Coffees, juices, banana pancakes, yogurt. The works. From there, we headed out for a long walk through the old and new harbours — since we honestly had no clue where the boat we’d be sleeping on was actually docked.

The rest of the morning we wandered through town, stopping at some of our favourite spots: Funke for books, Surf Village (where Benthe ended up buying not one, but two toweling capes), Jonker and Lokaal.

Around noon, we took the bus to Strand West. Jonas and I went head-first into the Wadden Sea waves while Benthe relaxed in the sun. Lunch was at West aan Zee, featuring local Schoemrakker beer and a proper pause.

Back in West-Terschelling an hour later, we waited for Symon, one of his daughters, and a few friends to arrive with the boat. Perfect timing to grab a drink at De Walvis, overlooking Het Groene Strand, with some bitterballen on the side. A classic move.

Sleeping in the Harbour

Turns out, we’d be sleeping in the old harbour, with a view of the Brandaris lighthouse and possibly the best boat spot in town. We had a casual dinner at Zeezicht (with our ship in full view) then took a slow sunset walk around the village before heading back on board.

The night? Let’s say… compact. With my 1.90m frame and 100kg body, ship bunks aren’t exactly built for me. I also spent most of the night half-awake making sure Jonas didn’t roll out of his berth. But Benthe loved it. And really, what more do you need?

Day Two: Setting Sail

The real adventure started the next morning. We left the harbour around 10:30 AM. With the unpredictable tides of the Wadden Sea, it was set to be a challenge. After navigating the narrow Schuitegat channel, we hoisted the sails — including the jib — and entered that perfect state of sailing: quiet, focused, free.

Seals swam along the boat. And then something rare: a bruinvis (harbour porpoise) surfaced not far from us. Four adults and three kids all on deck, taking turns at the helm, trimming sails, soaking it all in.

Symon’s guest Stefan, a former navy cook, whipped up lunch in the galley. And with such perfect weather, we opted for the long route toward the IJsselmeer, taking our time past the Afsluitdijk. From there, it was a straight shot to Stavoren, where we docked around 7PM.

While I took the train to Harlingen to pick up the car, Benthe, Jonas and the crew jumped off the pier for a well-deserved swim.

What Remains

This weekend was more than just a break. It was a reminder: to love your surroundings, to love the people around you — and to embrace the process of slowing down.

Even if the bed's too short.